1965 Dodge Coronet 440 6 Passenger Wagon Big Block 4 Speed 383 Mopar Superstock on 2040-cars
Cookeville, Tennessee, United States
Body Type:Wagon
Engine:383 big block
Vehicle Title:Clear
Exterior Color: Blue
Make: Dodge
Number of Cylinders: 8
Model: Coronet
Trim: 440
Drive Type: 4 speed
Number of Doors: 4
Mileage: 100,000
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Up for sale is my 1965 Dodge coronet wagon. I bought this car in early 2010 from Bakersfield, California and had the car shipped to me here in TN. The car originally was a 361 big block 727 auto car that showed 68-69,000 miles on the odometer. I honestly believed that to be the original miles. When I got the car here it did run , but had transmission issues so shortly after I decided to change it over to a 4 speed. I drove it around this way for a while with the original engine taking it to the mopar nats in 2010 for the year of the Coronet. The original engine always smoked and used oil so that winter I had bought a previous rebuilt 67 model 383 short block to replace it with. So I pulled the original engine, that i still have, to install the rebuilt 383. The 383 is a basic rebuild with .030 over bore with factory replacement flat top pistons and steel crank. I had a set of 915 closed chamber heads rebuilt by Motorworks of Cookeville, TN with new milodon street stainless steel valves installed. Part numbers for the valves are 45650-8 and 45655-8. I have about $450.00 in the machine work on the heads plus the cost of valves. Heads were installed with felpro Q1009 head gaskets. I also had an engle HYD. 3 bolt cam installed with matching engle valve springs. The rockers, shafts, and pushrods are the originals for the 67 383. The motor had a new double roller timing chain, factory replacement fuel pump, a flow cooler high volume water pump, an edelbrock DP4B aluminum intake, new rubber engine mounts, hoses, and belts. The alternator was also upgraded at this time to a tuff stuff natural finish 100 amp internal regulated unit along with the FBO electronic ignition set up. I also replaced the oil pump with a new milling pump with the MP high pressure spring. The new cam and lifter were broken in with Amsoil break in oil and the engine has only been ran with amsoil 20-50 Z-rod oil along with wix oil fliters since being installed.
For fuel the engine has a 750 holley double pumper. The air cleaner on the car is a factory air grabber chrome lid with a fiberglass base. The exhaust is a pair of 68-69 HP B-body exhaust manifolds going to a set of 2.25" aluminized pipes and pro flow mufflers. The radiator is the original BB unit that I had rodded and cleaned out along with added the 2 piece factory style fan shroud. I also run a 180 degree thermostat with a 50/50 mix. The original power steering pump was rebuilt while the engine was out.
During the engine replacement the 4 speed was rebuilt with a kit from Brewers performance with new bearings, gaskets, and seals. I have replaced the clutch a month back with a new Ram 10.5" clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing mounted to a freshly machined flywheel. All of the 4 speed change out parts are original mopar parts, cast iron 10.5" BB bell housing, V8 Zbar, factory 4 speed only crossmember with new mount from imperial services, 4 speed hump, steering column, and clutch pedals with new pedal pads. The B body 23 spline 4 speed started life as a 68 model, but has had the early A body 3.09 gear set installed in it along with the front case changed to the earlier style with no vin pad. Hurst 4 speed shifter box and rods with a new replacement shifter handle. I installed the correct speedo drive gear along with a new cable at the time of the swap. Since then the speedo stopped working and I replaced the original with another one from a parts car. The speedometer does work now, but the odometer does not. The drive shaft is the original slip yoke drive shaft for the car with a new rear joint that converts it to fit the 7290 yoke on the rear. The rear end is an original 3.23 gear 489 case cone type suregrip that I picked up at a swap meet. It has not been rebuilt, but is quite as a mouse and I hated to mess with it. I also have installed new tapered rear axle bearings, seals, and rear brakes only a month ago.
The car has factory mopar 15x8 steel wheels with almost new 275/60/15 BFG radial TA tires on the rear. Fronts are 15x5 american racing torque thrust D with also nearly new tires. I upgraded the front brakes to 73-up factory single piston disc that I got at a swap meet. I got them from a guy that was going to A/M brake set up so these were being run. I just replaced the calipers, pads, and hoses while doing the swap. I also upgraded the original single resivor master cylinder to a dual resivor type. The upper A arm bushing, bump stops, and front shocks were also replaced at this time.
I have replaced all the lights in the dash so they all work along with the gauges. I also replaced the heater core along with the under dash vent hoses. The factory water shut off had been cut of some time in the past and a cap welded on the original pipe coming out of the heater core so I installed a valve in the heater hose lines under the hood for a heater valve.
The car on the outside is basically how i bought it. I was not really interested in doing a restoration on the car, and just wanted a good cruiser to take to swap meets,or cruise nights with the family. Something not to worry over, but enjoy. It is a very solid car due to being from California its whole life. I still have both original California black plates for the car. It does have some rust on the outer layer of the drivers side upper cowl, the lower part of the tail gate, and one spot that looks to have kitty hair or duraglass pushed in to it on the RT side by where the back glass rolls up . The car is basically straight on the drivers side with the exception of a dent in the front of the drivers fender. The passenger side does have some dents that have been pushed back out and some damage to the rear quarter that looks to have been ran over something. The floors, trunk pan, doors, rockers, fenders, and hood are pretty much rust free. They might have some surface rust , but no rust through. The car has not been painted in many many year so you no it not hiding major issues. All glass is in good orginal condition, I think the windshield my have a rock chip or a bb shot in it. Interior is pretty much original as well decent, but sort of dry and sun baked. The drivers side door panel is the worst shape. I have replaced the carpet during the 4 speed swap, and some time or the other the seats have been recovered. I have always kept mexican blankets covering the seats, but that can just be pulled out if you like. The car has also had seat belts put in for the rear seat. The wagon only headliner is overall nice with one place the has been cracked.
As I say alot on the car is original. Most of the exterior and interior with the exception of me adding the fiberglass A990 hood scoop and converting the grille to the A 990 style. This is more what I wanted sort of a patina look and something to take take to shows and meets and not have to worry alot over. I also had intention of doing some hand lettering down the sides , but never got around to that. This is not a completely restored car nor a perfect car. It is an on going project of mine that I have decide to try to sell. I have spent a lot of time and money trying to do the drive line like it needs to be to make a good cruiser. I have driven the car on 140-150 mile round trip cruises without issues and drive it to local cruise night that are about 60 mile round trip without issue, but it is an old car and I can not guarantee anything. The things that I have replaced have been within the 3 years of me owning the car. Like most old cars it does run better once it has warmed up , the carb has had the choke horn milled off so it has no choke. It does ride, shift, and drive good down the road and the 3.23 gears along with the tall tires makes for a good road gear. I drove it a couple weeks ago for a 30-35 mile cruise it was 89 degrees outside and it ran between 185-190 degrees on the temp gauge going down the road. It might be better to have a little lower gear possibly a 3.55 or so with the big car, but I was more interested in a cruiser. It gets alot of attention where ever I go , but i just need to thin down alittle as I have two many projects and can not keep them all going. If you are looking for something you can drive and enjoy and tinker with this might be the project for you. Please ask any and all questions before you bid and before auction has ended. I will add a photobucket link with 102 pictures of everything on the car inside, outside, under bottom, under the dash ,cam card specs, just about everything you would want to see, and I can take more if needed. The Link to photobucket I also have a couple videos of the car running. http://s298.photobucket.com/user/mattsmopars/library/1965%20coronet%20wagon?page=1#/user/mattsmopars/library/1965%20coronet%20wagon?page=1&_suid=136718818745606022920667733269
Please serious bidders only, so if you bid I expect you to follow through on the deal. A non refunable $500.00 paypal deposit is due within 24 hours of auction end and the remaining ballance is due cash in person, or bank wire transfer. The car will not leave my garage before the funds are clear. Shipping will be the responsibility of the buyer and I will do what I can to help with that. I would rather anyone seriously interested in the car to come personally inspect it and drive it before buying. I have tried to give a good honest description of the car as possible. It is sold as is where is with no warranty of any kind. I do have a clear TN title in my name. I do have a 65 coronet parts wagon for parts and the buyer has first shot at buying anything from it.
Please let me know if you have any question and thanks for looking!
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