1993 Chevy Cummins K3500 on 2040-cars

 This Chevy is a 1993 model with a 1997 Cummins. (215 pump)  It has a 47RH, and 241DHD.  I built every part of this conversion.  It is not a kit conversion.  Since I put the engine in, I've put 30,000 trouble-free miles on it.  Now I have broken stuff along the way, but it was my fault, not the truck's.
It started as an almost stock engine.  Just free mods and timing.  I ran it like that until I broke the stock input shaft getting onto the interstate.  I put in an ATS input shaft and ATS billet flywheel, and did another full tranny rebuild.  Eventually I put twins on it.  Started with he351cw over bht3b.  I ended up replacing the 3b with a 4c, and went from an "over/under" setup, to a "side by side" setup.
The truck is a pulling monster.  Has over 500 horsepower, and over 1000lbs of torque.  It gets up to 24mpg on the interstate via the 3.42 gears.  At 75mph, it does 1850rpm.  The lowest mileage I've gotten since the conversion was all in town, and that was 19mpg.  But this truck isn't about the mileage.  It's about the adrenaline rush you get whenever you punch the throttle.  The twins spool loudly and quickly.  They are lit by 1500 rpm, and past 50psi by 2000rpm thanks to the 9cm exhaust housing on the 351cw.
The truck is and isn't 4wd.  Right now, I've taken out the front drive line.  It's got 3.42's in the rear, and 4.10's in the front.  My plan was to put a Commonrail front end under it, and put 3.42's in the front as well.  But I've grown tired of this hobby, and it's someone else's turn.
At this point, it is a good daily driver with very good street manners.  You could dial out some fuel and work this truck too if you wanted.  It starts faster than any Cummins I've ever seen, and it does it without needing throttle input.  When it's warm, you can't even try to bump it over without it starting.
I've used Hobbs switches to control overdrive and lockup.  I located them under the 4wd trim.  You can adjust the shift points while you are going down the road.  If you want, you can adjust them to even lock up in third and do a locked shift to overdrive, and it will all still work like a normal automatic.  I've also put in a three-position mystery switch.  You can run it in "auto" and just leave the truck alone.  But you also have the options to force or defeat lockup.  This is useful for pulling heavy in the mountains.  Once the EGT's start to get hot, you can unlock the converter and they will cool down.  You can run it like that until the tranny starts to get warm.  At that point, you can force lockup and the tranny will rapidly cool back to 125*.  The cooler I put in is massive.  The switch also comes in handy on the dyno, as you can force lockup and floor it without it kicking out of lockup.  At that point, it is running like a manual tranny, and if you are driving and try to come to a stop, it will not downshift unless you change the switch to defeat lockup, or auto.  It will stay locked up so tight, it will kill the engine.
The truck is still a project truck.  You could tidy it up and call it done, or you can keep working on it.  It's wicked fast, and will run the 1/4 mile in high 13's launching in 2wd.  It sounds good, and has always been reliable for me.  But it's time for it to be someone else's project.
This truck is not street legal in Texas.  It needs the reverse lights hooked up and mudflaps put on to pass inspection.  So if you are planning on buying it, you can drive it at your own risk, or trailer it.  The reverse lights just need a connector for the tranny, then run the hot to the lights.
Here is a list of what I've done to it that I can remember:


HEAD:
Head gasket
Head studs (ARP 625)
Clearanced rocker pedestals
New valve guide seals
Hamilton billet pushrods with 10* titanium valve keepers
Hamilton 165lb beehive valve springs

AIR:
Three piece pulse manifold
HE351cw over HT4C (2400cfm/149lbs per minute)
94-98 intercooler

FUEL:
Contagious 7x12 injectors
215hp injection pump
181 delivery valves
Benched AFC with modded foot for rack travel

HAMILTON:
Billet pushrods with 10* titanium valve keepers
165lb beehive valve springs

PEAK:
4k governor spring kit

TRANNY:
47rh controlled with Hobbs switches
MagHytec double deep pan
Mystery switch to force lockup, defeat lockup, or run in auto
ATS billet flywheel
ATS billet input shaft
DTT master rebuild kit
DTT 4.4:1 apply lever
DTT billet band strut
DTT zero leak servos
DTT upgraded OD piston with O-ring
DTT extra clutches per pack
DTT valve body
DTT billet triple disk torque converter
New over running clutches
New governor
Cooler is 1998 Dodge Ram A/C condensor with another cooler stacked on top of it.  Mounted under the cab.  Controlled with thermocouple and can be adjusted to turn fan on at different temps.

MISC:
1997 Cummins engine
241DHD transfer case
Commonrail starter
3.42 gears in rear
Dakota Digital SGI-5 to control and calibrate speedometer
Firestone Transforce tires with probably 50,000 miles of tread left
Gauges (Autometer Phantom I 60 and 100 psi boost, 125-250* Trans temp, 0-2000* EGT)
KDP tabbed
18.5* timing